Stonier Reserve Chardonnay 2024

The classic of the Stonier range, Reserve Chardie is a single vineyard wine, sourced from 2 of the oldest blocks planted in 1978 and 1989.

They only made 220 dozen of this Reserve Chardonnay. There was a time in the past when the production of Stonier Reserve Chardonnay was in the vicinity of 2000 dozen. Production volumes are no guarantee for or against quality but clearly the emphasis in the winery is not on volume.

Great intensity of fruit and of texture here. Some nuttiness, some florals, some custardy characters, but it’s all driven by intense, seductive stonefruit with salt and tonic notes inlaid. “Premium wine has to have power,” winemaker Julian Grounds says, “and it has to have longevity. I don’t want it to be just an intellectual exercise.” This release is essential or inherently elegant but it’s also grippy and textured and intense. We don’t use the words “al dente” in relation to white wine often but this wine evokes those words. It has a firmness and a presence to go with its power and length. It’s in great shape. It’s an excellent Stonier Reserve Chardonnay.

95 Points, Campbell Mattinson WineFront