Polperro Chardonnay 2024

There is a lovely push and pull to Polperro Chardonnay: Mornington Peninsula richness on one side, cool-climate nerve on the other. Hand-picked grapes are whole-bunch pressed, allowed to ferment wild in French oak and left with their lees, building flavour slowly rather than reaching for obvious oakiness.

White peach and lemon curd give the palate its flesh, sharpened by grapefruit and a struck-stone edge. A whisper of toast sits in the background, while the finish turns long, salty and precise. It feels detailed and assured, but never fussy.