Cullen Kevin John Chardonnay 2023

The 2023 Kevin John is a powerful, bold, textural, example of a point in the journey with no end of discovering terroir through biodynamics. Hand harvested, whole bunch basket pressed, fermented in concrete egg, amphorae and biodynamic puncheons. Eight months of maturation in 80% new, biodynamic oak puncheons, bottled unfined and unfiltered. Made from 100% dry farmed biodynamically certified Wente/Gin Gin clone planted on the Cullen estate between 1976-1988.

Vintage 2023 was a low yielding vintage which resulted in some stunning grapes and hence quality wine. Small berry size particularly in white grape varieties produced beautifully balanced wines; Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon, Chardonnay, Cabernet and Malbec all outstanding.

Aromas of white flower, orange blossom, peach, nectarine vanilla, curry leaf, dried pear and grapefruit. With a tightly bound fruit palate with phenolic tension at the front, sliding through to peach, nectarine and grapefruit.

‘Made from 100% dry farmed biodynamically certified Wente/Gin Gin clone planted between 1976 and 1988. Australian Chardonnay is so good. Now packaged in a lighter bottle weighing 360 grams, as opposed to the old one which was 560 grams. Very good. Well done. Now lets get rid of those ‘flagship’ (usually red, aspirational, and anachronistic) wines weighing in at nearly 1kg… As an aside, I taste nearly all wines from a Plumm Three No.3 Burgundy glass these days, such a pleasing and durable glass. For light whites and sparkling, I tend to use Gabriel glass.

Peach and dried pear, plenty of spice, cedar, brittle toffee and vanilla, cumquat, lime and white flower. It’s a powerful expression of Wilyabrup Chardonnay, intense in acidity and flavour, it has spice and plenty of grip, lime nougat, a milk powder richness, and a bold finish of excellent length. Positively dripping with golden flavour and energy, but so very good.’ - 96 Points, Gary Walsh. The Wine Front