INTRODUCTION
Chablis is one of the clearest examples of what happens when the same grape is grown across different vineyards. Every wine is Chardonnay, yet the results range from the bright, citrus-driven character of Petit Chablis to Premier and Grand Cru wines with remarkable depth, structure and ageing potential.
Our William Fèvre Masterclass followed that journey through six wines, exploring how soil, vineyard, vintage and classification change what we find in the glass.
Vines have been grown in Chablis since Roman times, but it was the Cistercian monks of nearby Pontigny Abbey who helped establish the region’s vineyards from the 12th century. The wines later travelled along the River Yonne to Paris and eventually well beyond France. The region also endured enormous setbacks: phylloxera, mildew, war and devastating frost reduced Chablis to around 550 hectares by 1955. Today, it has recovered to more than 5,800 hectares under vine.
Beneath those vineyards are layers of limestone and clay formed in a warm, shallow sea more than 150 million years ago. Petit Chablis is generally found on the younger Portlandian soils of the higher slopes and plateaus, while Chablis, Premier Cru and Grand Cru are grown mainly on Kimmeridgian soils containing fossilised marine material.
One grape, four appellations and far more variation than you might expect. Through William Fèvre, we can taste that progression one vineyard at a time.
DOMAINE WILLIAM FEVRE MASTERCLASS
THE WINES
2024 WILLIAM FÈVRE PETIT CHABLIS
~ The First Step into Chablis ~
William Fèvre may be one of Chablis’ most recognised names, but under Didier Séguier the estate works with the care of a much smaller grower. Even its Petit Chablis is harvested entirely by hand—an uncommon commitment at this level.
The 2024 vintage was a true test. May hail and relentless mildew pressure reduced the estate’s average yield to just 9 hl/ha. A team of 200 pickers moved quickly through the vineyards, bringing the small remaining crop in pristine condition.
Grown on Portlandian limestone, the fruit was gently pressed and moved by gravity before natural fermentation and eight to ten months in small stainless-steel tanks.
Bright citrus, green apple and white flowers meet sea spray and a fine mineral line. Lively acidity carries the wine towards a clean, refreshing finish. What stands out most is its consistency: a sharp, stylish Petit Chablis that gives little indication of just how difficult the season was.
FOOD PAIRING SUGGESTIONS:
~ Fresh oysters with lemon
~ Sea bream ceviche with cucumber and lime
~ Salt-and-pepper calamari with citrus aioli
~ Whipped goat’s cheese crostini with fresh herbs
~ Flathead tacos with cabbage and lime
2023 WILLIAM FÈVRE CHABLIS
~ Classic Chablis Takes Shape ~
A mild, dry winter and largely harmless April frosts were followed by a hot May and stormy June. Disease pressure was carefully managed, while alternating heat and rainfall accelerated ripening through summer. Harvest began in early September under warm conditions, delivering a generous crop of healthy fruit.
The grapes were gently pressed and moved by gravity before natural fermentation in small stainless-steel tanks. Just 5 to 10% was vinified and matured in seasoned French oak, adding subtle breadth while retaining the wine’s freshness. Maturation continued for ten to twelve months.
Vibrant citrus and white-fleshed fruit lead the way, framed by fine acidity and the mineral character associated with Chablis. Fresh, supple and crystalline, it carries greater depth than the Petit Chablis while remaining open and inviting. A small measure of oak rounds the edges and gives the wine an easy, natural place at the table.
FOOD PAIRING SUGGESTIONS:
~ Scallop crudo with green apple and finger lime
~ Salmon and avocado sushi with pickled ginger
~ Steamed mussels with white wine and parsley
~ Grilled snapper with lemon and caper butter
~ Roast chicken with lemon and thyme
2023 WILLIAM FÈVRE CHABLIS PREMIER CRU VAILLONS
~ The Generous Side of Premier Cru ~
A mild, dry winter and largely harmless April frosts were followed by a hot May and storms in June. Alternating heat and rainfall accelerated ripening through summer, and harvest began in early September under warm conditions, delivering generous volumes of healthy fruit.
Vaillons lies on the left bank of the Serein and is one of the warmer, earlier-ripening Premier Cru sites. William Fèvre farms 3.65 hectares across 12 plots, primarily in Vaillons, Châtains, Mélinots and Roncières. The soils contain more limestone than clay, resting on hard, fractured Portlandian limestone above the Kimmeridgian layer.
The fruit was gently pressed and moved by gravity. Around 30 to 40% was vinified in seasoned French oak, with the remainder in small stainless-steel tanks. Maturation lasted approximately 13 to 14 months.
Pear, peach and citrus sit alongside honeysuckle, white flowers, beeswax and crushed shell. The palate is round and generous, with ripe acidity, a subtle chalky grip and a long saline finish. The warmth of 2023 gives Vaillons extra breadth, but its freshness and mineral character remain firmly in place.
FOOD PAIRING SUGGESTIONS:
~ Moreton Bay bug with tarragon butter
~ Crab linguine with lemon and parsley
~ Roast ocean trout with almonds
~ Wild mushroom and Comté tart
~ Pork tenderloin with pear and sage
~ "working the soil while respecting biodiversity"
2023 WILLIAM FÈVRE CHABLIS PREMIER CRU MONTMAINS
~ Structure, Tension and Stone ~
Montmains lies on the left bank of the Serein, where well-exposed yet frost-sensitive vineyards produce distinctly mineral wines with structure, tension and excellent ageing potential.
William Fèvre farms 3.89 southeast-facing hectares across Montmains, Butteaux and Forêt. Fairly deep soils sit above Kimmeridgian marl and clay, contributing both substance and a pronounced mineral character.
The wine matured for 18 months, with 30% spending five to six months on fine lees in French oak before finishing in small stainless-steel tanks.
Citrus, green apple and pear are joined by white flowers, crushed stone and oyster shell. The palate carries good concentration and weight, held together by fresh acidity and a distinctly chalky, saline line.
Structured and nervy, with impressive precision and length, the 2023 finishes fresh, mineral and persistent.
FOOD PAIRING SUGGESTIONS:
~ Kingfish crudo with grapefruit and fennel
~ Butter-poached marron with chives
~ Roast coral trout with sorrel sauce
~ Chicken ballotine with porcini and tarragon
~ Parmesan gnocchi with artichoke and lemon
2021 WILLIAM FÈVRE CHABLIS GRAND CRU BOUGROS
~ The Power of Grand Cru Chablis ~
Bougros sits at the western end of the Grand Cru hillside, where southwest-facing slopes receive intense afternoon sun. Its poor, free-draining marl and clay soils produce wines known for richness, power and a smooth mouthfeel. William Fèvre farms 6.23 hectares, almost half of this 12.62-hectare Grand Cru.
The cool 2021 season brought significant frost and a much smaller crop, with bright acidity bringing freshness and precision to Bougros’ naturally powerful style.
Following gentle pressing, 50–60% was fermented in seasoned French oak, with the remainder in stainless steel. Maturation lasted 14–15 months, including five to six months on fine lees in oak.
White flowers, peach and orchard fruit meet citrus, seashell and wet stone. Broad and concentrated, yet fresh and precise, the palate carries impressive tension through to a long, saline finish.
FOOD PAIRING SUGGESTIONS:
~ Grilled lobster with garlic butter
~ Seared scallops with cauliflower purée
~ Roast chicken with mushroom sauce
~ Creamy mushroom and Parmesan risotto
~ Aged Comté with fresh baguette
~ A Final Note of Elegance ~
The name Les Preuses is thought to derive from perreuse, meaning stone, possibly referring to the old Roman road beneath the vineyard. Overlooking the Chablis valley, this 10.8-hectare Grand Cru is known for wines of elegance, length and mineral definition.
For the 2021, 60–70% was fermented in seasoned French oak, with the remainder in stainless steel. Maturation lasted 14–15 months, with 50–60% spending five to six months on fine lees in oak before finishing in stainless steel.
White flowers, citrus and orchard fruit meet wet stone and pronounced salinity. The palate is full and silky yet beautifully focused, with racy acidity and a fine mineral line bringing freshness and precision.
Elegant, concentrated and persistent, Les Preuses carries remarkable energy through a long, saline finish.
FOOD PAIRING SUGGESTIONS:
~ Caviar with potato blinis and crème fraîche
~ Crab linguine with lemon, garlic and parsley
~ Grilled scampi with herb butter
~ Quail with mushrooms and a light cream sauce
~ Triple-cream Brie with fresh pear
CONCLUSION
Tasting these six wines together showed us what the Chablis hierarchy really means in the glass.
Petit Chablis began with citrus, sea spray and immediate freshness. Chablis added texture and depth. Vaillons showed the more generous and graceful side of Premier Cru, while Montmains brought greater tension, salinity and structure. Bougros introduced the scale and concentration of Grand Cru before Les Preuses finished with length and elegance.
The further we moved through the tasting, the more specific the story became. The grape and producer remained the same, but changes in soil, aspect, vintage and maturation gave each wine its own character.
And that, for us, is the real pleasure of Chablis: moving beyond the grape and beginning to taste the vineyard.
~ One Region, Many Expressions
